The 4Cs Part 2: Cut
The term “cut” refers to the shape of the diamond. There are many different diamond cuts and in this post we will introduce the most common types of cut and how they are assessed.
Choosing A Diamond Cut
The cut of a diamond should not only be well executed, but it should maximize the quality and value of the individual diamond. In some cases this means choosing a cut that can hide imperfections in the diamond, or showing off another one of the 4Cs. For example, if a diamond has a very high clarity, a cut with a large table (the top surface of a diamond) will display this to best effect. If a diamond has a low clarity with visible imperfections, the jeweller may choose a cut that makes the imperfections less visible.
The purpose of the diamond will also affect the choice of cut. If a diamond is to be placed in a jewellery setting, then the cut will probably be chosen to fit in with the design of the jewellery. A round diamond is usually the most versatile as it can be placed in a wide range of jewellery pieces – this means that the round brilliant cut is often a first choice for many jewellers.
Changing fashions are also a factor in choosing a cut for a particular diamond. During the 15th century for example, the rose cut was the most popular, whereas the round brilliant is now the most common and popular diamond shape.
Types of Diamond Cut
- Round Cut
The most popular “shape” of diamond remains the round shape, for very sound reasons. Round shaped diamonds come in several varieties:- - Modern Brilliant Cut
Often known as the brilliant, round, round brilliant, or “brill.”. Has 58 facets, including the table and culet. - Eight Cut or Single Cut
Often used for very small diamonds, under 1 or 2 “points”. These only have eight facets on the crown, eight on the pavilion, plus the table and culet, making 18 in total. - Old Cut or Early Modern Brilliant
An older, less precisely cut version of the modern brilliant cut. - Swiss Cut
Halfway between a brilliant and an eight cut, with 34 facets in total. - Rose Cut
Most rose cut diamonds are round, but some may look triangular, or have straight edges. Rose cuts look like diamonds which have been cut upside-down; they rise to a point at the top, and are often flat at the base. - Square Cut
The square shaped diamond is really only a special case of the oblong shape. - Oblong or Baguette Cut
Most oblong or rectangular diamonds are “step” cut, which means that their facets have been cut in steps, parallel to the edges, in the manner of a pyramid with its top chopped off. Long thin oblongs are often known as baguettes. Tapered baguettes also exist. - Emerald or Octagon Cut
This is another “step” cut, but with the four corners mitred. This is done largely to protect the stone, as any sharp points are vulnerable to getting chipped. - Oval Cut
Most oval diamonds are like a squashed round brilliant. Because their depth to diameter ratio varies, they can never be a “perfect” proportion, and therefore lose some brilliance when compared with a round diamond. Actually most “round” diamonds are very slightly off-round. - Marquise Cut
Marquise or navette shape is like a long oval which has been stretched out to a point at each end. Similar comments apply as to the oval. - Triangle Cut
Not a popular shape. It is normally a variation of the square cut, in that its facets are step cut, but some triangle shapes are a modification of the round brilliant cut. - Pear Cut
One half oval, and the other half marquise. - Heart Cut
Pear shape with a notch cut into the top. - Princess Cut
A relatively new shape, oblong, usually square or almost square, but with a modified brilliant cut arrangement of facets instead of a step cut. This produces a much more brilliant and sparkly diamond than a traditional step cut square or oblong. It is not as successful for baguette shapes (long and thin). - Radiant Cut
This is a hybrid cut, a cross between a princess cut and an emerald cut. It combines the best features of the round brilliant cut, the square shape of the princess or square baguette cut, and the cut corners of the emerald cut. Like the princess cut, it is normally used for near-square stones rather than oblong ones. - Kite or Diamond Shape
A fancy shape which resembles a kite or the sectional profile of a diamond viewed from the side.
